And just like that

And Just Like That, the patriarchy is still pulling the strings by Nina Gbor

Credit: Vogue

It's not hyperbole to say SATC series was one of the most culturally influential shows, particularly on women. Even though it ended in 2004, its influence on culture - style, women, fashion, relationships, people, etc is undeniable. For me, it was only about the style. When the reboot, And Just Like That was announced in 2021, it nearly broke the internet. Most of the episodes of the first season have aired and the momentum online hasn’t stopped.  

Credit: Forbes

I won’t bother going over all the controversial hot topics from recent episodes because they’ve been thoroughly covered - from AJLT’s attempt at diversity, cast feuds, inclusion, cultural appropriation, LGBTQI, etc and then there’s ageing. The show has gotten a lot of praise for addressing the issue of women and ageing head-on. It’s rare in Hollywood and mainstream to feature women in their 50s with grey hair and wrinkles as main characters, amp up their style and tell their stories.

Credit: Stuff

 A basic tenet of patriarchy  

Anyone familiar with the whole patriarchal ideals on women knows that for centuries the value of a woman was primarily based on her youth, her beauty or both. These standards still very much exist in modern society but the momentum of movements like feminist, humanitarian and equality have moved the needle a little bit in the last few decades. People are far more aware of these dynamics than ever before.

The double standards, lack of equity, misogyny, oppression of women and so on are seen in every industry. As women get older and therefore no longer fit into the super narrow confines of these shallow standards, their value in society according to the patriarchal system diminishes and they become less visible. As women are commodified in this way and as they age, it gets harder for some women to find employment, get financial opportunities, date, maintain self-esteem or even be treated with basic dignity and respect by society.

Patriarchy influence on media and culture

The tv, film and media often have the power to shape cultural perceptions, shift narratives and attitudes towards gender for better or for worse. Women occupy only 27% of senior executive leadership positions in media and entertainment according to McKinsey Consulting.

It’s not surprising that the perception of women continues to be skewed in the direction of inequality and double standards. Film and television for as long as I can remember has been flooded with patriarchal commodification standards of and towards women. These standards have seeped into our personal and collective subconscious. Even as women or people from marginalised groups, it takes effort to unlearn some of these biases. In some cases, it requires an exorcism. Which is why the patriarchy is still puling the strings by making women dislike parts of themselves.

AJLT is no exception.

Credit: Grazia Magazine

Desperately trying to seem cool (young)

As much as AJLT has appeared to embrace ageing in some contexts, it’s still following the patriarchal playbook. In episode 8, we meet Carrie’s new young neighbour who keeps Carrie awake in the middle of the night with loud noises with her friends. Carrie frantically asks them to stop the noise. Then Carrie is devastated because she’s worried she won’t be seen as cool. Not simply because of a reasonable fear of having bad blood with a new neighbour (which would be totally understandable) but for not no longer being cool.

The connotation was that she wanted to come off as someone in her 20s(ish) who also stays up all night. She even lies to her neighbour the following day insisting that she had been awake writing in the middle of the night and the noise only bothered her cause she was writing. As opposed to the truth that she was trying to sleep because apparently sleeping in the middle of the night (instead of partying / hanging out) implies she’s old. And it’s apparently taboo to be age. Carrie desperately trying to fit into this mould signals other ways that women still need to fit into a standard to feel validated. It might not even be a conscious thing but it’s there. That old patriarchal notion of a woman being validated by her youth definitely played itself out here albeit in a micro way. But the implication is big. 

Credit: Title Press

The implication

Carrie could have fully embraced where she is. There’s nothing wrong with going to bed early and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with going to bed early cause you’re older. That’s life. We go through different stages and should not feel shame for it or any other behaviours that people do as they move through stages of life.

The more we normalise them and not vilify someone for doing what is natural, the sooner we can realise more equality for women and other people. In other words, stop making older women wrong all the time and younger women right all the time. They’re both valid, they’re both equally prone to right and wrong.

I’m sure it wasn’t the intention of the show but it’s just another way of seeing the lingering patriarchal hold on women, how it manifests unconsciously or otherwise and how we perpetuate it.  

Where to go from here

Being the culturally influential show that it is, there’s an opportunity to embrace more than the physical side (grey hair and wrinkles) of ageing. It can go full circle in normalising the psychological attitudes and behaviours of ageing too. It will go a long way in shifting the status quo with women and the people that have criminalised women for ageing.

I’ve been inspired by the style of the series courtesy show stylists, Patricia Field and now Molly Roger. And I don’t want to join the ranks of people criticising the show for sport. I’m not even sure this is a criticism as opposed to an observation that we have to be vigilant with our minds on how streams of patriarchal ideals make us feel about ourselves when we’re not looking. And how we perpetuate them in our lives or the lives of other women. With all the years of service given, experience, wisdom and knowledge accumulated over years, women getting older are to be treated with plenty of RESPECT.

We have to undo these brainwashed ideals in all areas of life and stop making ageing a crime in media, entertainment and everyday life.

 ♥ Nina Gbor

Insta: @eco.styles

Developing your individual style like the legendary style icon and hero, Audrey Hepburn! by Nina Gbor

Audrey Hepburn in the 1957 classic film, Funny Face, wearing a red dress designed by Givenchy.

Audrey Hepburn in the 1957 classic film, Funny Face, wearing a red dress designed by Givenchy.

This week would have been the 91st birthday of the greatest style icon the world has ever known, Audrey Hepburn. Her elegant, graceful, timeless, captivating style is still revered to this day. Not only was she a screen legend in Hollywood’s Golden Age, she was also a hero. Her empathy, compassion and kindness made her travel the world to help children in the poorest countries get access to food, healthcare, clean water. Audrey Hepburn’s iconic status goes beyond just physical beauty and gorgeous dresses. Her philanthropy changed the lives of many children in the world.

Audrey Hepburn as UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador.

Audrey Hepburn as UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador.

She herself had faced starvation and undernourishment as a child in Holland in the 1940s during world war II. So, she knew what it was like. This made her determined to help as many children as possible. She was appointed UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador in 1988 and awarded the Jean Hersholt Humanitarian Award in 1993. Audrey Hepburn also received the United States’ Presidential Medal of Freedom in December 1992.

Hollywood and style legacy

What made Audrey a true style icon was her individuality. She disrupted Hollywood in the 1950s, with a unique look, her own sense of style and torrents of gracefulness and kindness. This was at a time when women in Hollywood were mostly being cast as the sexy, blonde bombshell. In 1954 she won an Oscar for Best Actress with the film, Roman Holiday (1953). Many of her most iconic ensembles can be seen in her films like Sabrina (1954), Funny Face (1957) and of course, Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961). I did a photo shoot tribute to Audrey’s style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Check it out here.

In my opinion, the fictional character, Carrie Bradshaw from the hit TV series Sex & The City (1998 - 2004), is the only relatively modern style icon that comes close to Audrey’s legendary status. Again, I believe this is because Carries’s style was very individualised i.e. styled to suit the character’s personality and lifestyle. Moreover, the show’s costume stylist, Patricia Field mixed vintage and modern pieces to create Carrie’s wardrobe. This is what made Carrie’’s style so timeless, unusual and unforgettable.

Sarah Jessica Parker as Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and The City, wearing a vintage style red dress with black polka dots, with a green underlay. Also wearing a black coat with white cuffs and a floral broach at the neck.

Sarah Jessica Parker as Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and The City, wearing a vintage style red dress with black polka dots, with a green underlay. Also wearing a black coat with white cuffs and a floral broach at the neck.

Individual style

In short, individual, person style that transcended trends and fashion eras is what made the style of these women so memorable and inspirational to this day. The key to becoming your own style icon, therefore, is to look within. It’s NOT fashion trends. Style should not be uniform across the board with everyone. There’s no beauty in imitation. When we’re following trends, we’re ignoring our own intuition on what’s best for us as individuals. And by accepting these false, external standards, we’re giving up too much of our freedom and individuality. You can become more grounded, intuitive and powerful from following your own individual style. So, forget what the trends are, forget what anyone is telling you should be wearing this season.

How to craft your individual style

1. Know yourself. Think about who you are, what you stand for and what makes you happy. What’s your purpose and mission in life? Let your style be determined by this formation.

2. Use a personal style formula. This is a formula I came up with a few years ago when I was teaching people how to transition to preloved shopping in markets, vintage stores, thrift stores and clothes swaps. Here’s the formula:

Your colour palette (colours that look good on you)

+

Your body shape (cuts and styles that work for your silhouette)

+

Your lifestyle / personality

=

Your Personal Style Formula!

A combination of these three elements will give your style authenticity, timelessness and individuality. Not to mention, iconic in your own right!

♥ Nina Gbor