Italy fines Shein €1 million for greenwashing

Ultra-fast fashion conglomerate Shein, is being fined for the second time in two months. Italy’s antitrust agency, AGCM recently issued a €1M fine (approximately $1.7 million AUD / $1.15M USD) for greenwashing practices i.e. “misleading customers about the environmental impact of its products.”

Similarly, the first fine for Shein came from France in July this year through the country’s antitrust agency responsible for consumer protection and competition. They hit Shein with the first greenwashing fine to the tune of €40 million (approx. $72 million AUD) for fake discounts and misleading environmental claims.

The brand allegedly used “vague, generic, and/or overly emphatic,” claims that were considered “misleading or omissive” in connection to its “evoluSHEIN by design” collection. It promoted sustainable practices, with claims like using “fabrics left over by other fashion brands that were destined for landfill or incineration.”

The company’s touts of a circular system design and product recyclability "were found to be false or at the very least confusing", and the green credentials of its 'evoluSHEIN by design' collection were overstated, the regulator said.

Italy has fined the Chinese fast fashion online retailer Shien over $1.7 million for greenwashing. Nina Gbor from the Australia Institute says the e-commerce giant was giving “false and misleading” information to customers that they were doing something good for the environment.

The agency said the recyclability claims “were found to be either false or at least confusing,” warning consumers might think Shein products are fully recyclable and made only from sustainable materials which “does not reflect reality.” It’s also "a fact that, considering the fibres used and currently existing recycling systems, is untrue".

Italy’s AGCM also accused the brand of using a “misleading communication strategy” about its environmental impact, like Shein’s commitments to cut greenhouse emissions by 25% by 2030 and reach net zero by 2050, noting that Shein's emissions increased in 2023 and 2024.

Shein responded by saying they have “strengthened internal review processes” and cleaned up its website to make sure all environmental claims are now “clear, verifiable, and compliant with regulations.”

Shein’s Impact

Shein made $32.5 billion sales in 2023. Their sales were forecasted to reach $50 billion in 2024. The average price of an item from Shein is between $10 - $20. It ships ultra-cheap clothing from thousands of suppliers to tens of millions of customer mailboxes in around 150 countries. 

These are factors that make Shein one of the biggest polluters of fast fashion. It has about 600,000 items for sale on average on its website and adds around 10,000 items each day. The company was shipping about one million products a day as of last year. In 2024, the company made over one billion dollars in revenue in Australia.  

There were concerns were from Shein’s third annual sustainability report published in 2023 which showed the company nearly doubled its carbon dioxide emissions between 2022 and 2023. Shein emitted 16.7 million total metric tons of carbon dioxide in 2023 which falls far below its Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) validated reduction targets to reduce absolute Scope 1 and 2 GHG emissions by 42% by 2030.

Can fining fast fashion companies be effective in Australia and other countries?

There’s nothing that corporations and most businesses hate more than losing profits in any way. So, the answer to whether fining greenwashing can work in my opinion is yes. Provided the fines are substantial amounts and not just a slap on the wrist. I think each time a company fails to comply with environmental regulations they should be fined. And the fines can potentially increase each time the offence is committed again. And if the fines are proving ineffective in general, it might be a sign that the amounts are too small to have an impact, therefore they should be increased.  

Isn’t it the consumers’ responsibility not to purchase fast fashion?

Every individual is responsible for their actions, including their own consumption and overconsumption habits. However, I believe the onus lies more on the brands/corporations to do the right thing by being honest and transparent with their claims. Clothing companies with access to multi-million- or billion-dollar funds have the resources and power to run operations and access materials that are genuinely better for the environment while still being profitable in many cases. Whereas, some consumers are experiencing cost-of-living crises, are time-poor because of life commitments and experience other issues that make it challenging for them to patronise non-fast fashion items.

 What can consumers people do instead of fast fashion?

Instead of buying fast fashion, consumers can:

• purchase secondhand items

• host or attend clothes swaps

• rent / hire and borrow clothing

• repair, mend or repurpose existing garments

• use free clothing services such as Thread Together who get left over clothes from retail brands and give to people who need them.

Moreover, some fast fashion items are have been found to have toxic chemicals from the materials used and dyes. Secondhand clothes might have less toxic chemicals than brand new ones. In addition to this, about 85% of clothes end up in landfill or incinerated each year. Reusing garments diverts clothes from landfill and it’s healthier for the environment in several ways.

*Article by Nina Gbor

The Vintage Wave: How second-hand clothing is paving the way for sustainable fashion in East Asia

Vintage shop in Shimokitazawa. Image credit: Stella Lee

In recent years, the global fashion industry has faced increasing pressure to adopt sustainable methods. Some impactful ways include cutting down consumption, buying second-hand clothing, and upcycling. The importance of such practices rise day by day as we witness the negative impacts that come with the rise of fast fashion brands.

East Asia, popular for its fast-paced and trend-driven fashion industries, is not a commonly discussed region in the scope of sustainable fashion. The area, consisting of countries such as China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, and Mongolia, is home to various fashion scenes difficult to generalize into a monolithic category. However, with Japan beginning to accept second hand clothing in the 1950s, many people across the area have started to embrace the act of secondhand items, unlocking the possibility for a new force of sustainable fashion in the region. 

Purchasing secondhand clothing is one of the main ways to practice sustainable fashion by purchasing second-hand clothing instead of new ones. This allows one to prolong the life of clothing items from old t-shirts to old boots and fight against the dominant cycles of mass production as well. 

This article will dive into four main cities—Seoul, Tokyo, Shanghai, and Taipei—to analyze their thrifting cultures and moreover give an insight into how such activity has the potential to influence East Asia’s sustainable fashion landscape.

Seoul, South Korea

Although thrifting culture is not as prominent as in Western countries, the ‘vintage’ breeze has carried similar parts of it to South Korea. South Korean people, especially the youth population, are known for their sharpness to trends and sensitivity to “staying in fashion”. Some examples of this would be the obsession in luxury brand items, such as Chanel or Gucci. They also tend to focus on getting the latest ‘limited edition’, and influencers regularly boast on their hard work in obtaining a limited edition piece as content. The key points here are that such items have a value of scarcity, they are irreplaceable and hard to find.

This phenomenon reached a different curve with the recent “retro” and “Y2K” trend, which generated buzz around the term ‘vintage’. Although vintage, by definition meaning something from the past of high quality, is not a new word, it has become a major keyword coupled with the recent trends in fashion. Nowadays the term is used to indicate second-hand clothing in general, and “vintage” pieces refer to ones that someone else has worn in the past. The biggest selling point for vintage items is that they are no longer widely available, making them rare and unique. Now, popular influencers and K-pop idols, which have worldwide influence, are featuring themselves on vintage shopping tours, reinforcing these trends.

Despite the fact that a lot of neighborhoods in Seoul are developing their own “vintage” culture, a main area would be Hongdae. Located near 4 major university campuses (Ehwa, Hongik, Sogang, and Yonsei), Hongdae is comprised of bustling streets full of tourists and young consumers. In these alleys, one can find various vintage shops often tucked away but impossible to miss for active seekers. These shops tend to be curated meticulously, meaning that the owners carefully inspect each piece and go through a separate process of manufacturing to ensure quality control. Another notable factor is that they often ‘reform’ or upcycle clothes—by cutting out patches of intact fabric from a no longer sellable piece of clothing and attaching it to another piece, cropping branded shirts, basically recreating a third piece from scattered, used garments. 

Online platforms are also playing a key part, with reselling platforms such as ‘Karrot’ and ‘BUNJANG’ increasing in terms of downloaders and overall revenue. These applications create a marketplace for users to sell and buy used items (including clothes) for cheaper prices, blurring the lines between the consumer and the seller. According to a BUNJANG resale report, the Korean resale market saw accelerated growth in the last decade, a key characteristic being that shoppers gravitate toward buying secondhand goods online.

Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo’s thrifting culture has deep historical roots, stretching back to the Edo period) (1603-1968). The initial rise of second-hand clothing was linked to the high cost and difficulty of repairing kimonos, which led people to valuing garment repair and resale. As second-hand clothing transactions developed, this culture began to take root in Japanese society. After WWII, Japan faced a severe shortage of goods and imported a large number of garments from the United States, which further popularized vintage culture, especially in areas like Ueno and Asakusa. Ueno, a key trade and transportation hub, saw an influx of second-hand American clothing, while Asakusa, with its strong artistic and entertainment background, embraced these styles as part of its creative expression. Both areas, known for their vibrant, youthful, and fashion-driven populations, became centers for the early adoption of vintage fashion.

The modern rise of vintage culture began in the 1980s during the bubble economy era, when people in Tokyo were eager to buy antique luxury goods from abroad. This trend elevated the value of vintage items. Following the collapse of the bubble economy, vintage culture underwent a transformation—from being a niche interest among a few collectors to becoming accessible to the general public. This shift allowed areas such as Shimokitazawa and Koenji to emerge as hubs for vintage fashion.

Today, areas like Shimokitazawa and Koenji still act as hotspots for vintage shopping, boasting over 137 vintage shops in Shimokitazawa alone. Other areas, such as Harajuku's Cat Street, also contribute to Tokyo's vibrant second-hand culture, with popular stores like ‘Chicago’ known for its vintage kimonos, and ‘Kinji Used Clothing’ offering a wide selection of affordable items.

The modern thrifting culture trend in Tokyo emphasizes both individuality and environmental consciousness. Younger generations value fashion as a sustainable choice, and celebrities like Masaki Suda and Nana Komatsu have contributed to this trend by proudly wearing second-hand clothes. Shops have adapted to the growing focus on “cleanliness” to improve the shopping experience, making vintage more appealing to a broader audience. In addition, chain stores like ‘Second Street’ have expanded across Japan, further integrating vintage fashion into mainstream culture and supporting a move towards sustainability.

Shanghai, China

Shanghai's second-hand clothing market has recently experienced significant growth, driven by increasing consumer awareness of sustainability and the influence of vintage trends from cities like Tokyo. However, unlike Japan, China lacks a historical tradition of second-hand clothing culture, largely due to the stigma associated with wearing used clothes, often seen as a sign of poverty and a threat to one's "mianzi,” or social standing.

Despite these challenges, younger generations, particularly Gen Z, are embracing the concept of recycled fashion. Neighborhoods such as Julu Road have become well-known for boutique vintage shops that cater to this growing demand for unique styles. Offline markets, like the "Savvy Exchanger" monthly market, have become popular events where people can swap clothes while enjoying music and local beer, creating a trendy and social experience. In Shanghai, popular offline vintage stores like "Duozhuayu" are gaining traction, offering pre-owned books and vintage clothing, and frequently featured on platforms like ‘Red’.

The second-hand market in China is also largely driven by online platforms, such as Xianyu (https://www.goofish.com/), an offshoot of Alibaba, has become particularly popular due to its user-friendly experience and credibility in addressing concerns about counterfeit goods. These platforms contribute to a significant portion of the market, which was valued at approximately 10.4 trillion RMB (around 1.63 trillion USD) by 2020.

Notably, Shanghai’s second-hand luxury market has seen a surge in popularity, although it still remains smaller in scale compared to more developed markets such as Japan and the United States. Younger consumers are leading this growth, viewing second-hand luxury as a way to access high-end brands at more affordable prices while also supporting sustainability. Nonetheless, Shanghai's emerging second-hand fashion scene represents a blend of practicality, sustainability, and social trends, positioning it as a developing hub for vintage culture in China.

Taipei, Taiwan

Taipei has carved out its own niche in the East Asian thrifting culture, offering a unique blend of sustainability and style. 

Popular areas like Chifeng Street are home to well-known vintage stores such as “R Vintage”, “Deer Horn”, and “Booday”, which cater to diverse tastes ranging from classic retro pieces to high-end designer items. The rise of vintage fashion in Taipei is fueled by both a love for the aesthetic and growing awareness of the importance of sustainable consumption.

Vintage fashion is popular among young people for its individuality, while older generations appreciate the environmental benefits. Sustainability is central to Taiwan’ vintage trend, with increased awareness of reducing waste and supporting the circular economy. Events like Clothing swaps and vintage markets further promote a culture of reuse, helping position Taipei as a center of sustainable fashion.

Conclusion

The ‘vintage boom’ was a binding factor for culturally diverse countries of East Asia, shaping unique attitudes towards the world of second-hand fashion. From the busy streets of Seoul to the culturally rich neighborhoods of Tokyo, the appeal of second-hand clothing is growing to be more than just a trend. However, this relatively new culture must maintain its force, which calls for approaches rooted in demands for sustainability rather than consumerism and desires to follow micro trends. By combining its tradition, culture, and innovative nature, East Asia has the potential to lead a new wave of eco-conscious style across the region.

*Article written by Stella Lee and Bo-Han Zhang.

Stella Lee - Located in South Korea, Stella Lee is a journalist passionate about social issues, with a focus on covering stories from around the world.

Bo-Han Zhang - Located in Japan, Bo-Han Zhang specializes in business strategy and community development, with experience in consulting and a focus on sustainable fashion in East Asia.