Positive Change

Fashion, women's rights and free trade agreements by Nina Gbor

Photo courtesy of ActionAid Australia.

Photo courtesy of ActionAid Australia.

It’s now common knowledge that the fashion industry is not only one of the most polluting industries in the world, but it’s also laden with a lot of social injustice issues such as systemic poverty, unfair wages and lives being lost due to manufacturing. Through the efforts of activists, ethical brands and organisations like Fashion Revolution, Wardrobe Crisis, Ellen Macarthur Foundation and Eco-Age, many people are demanding ethical standards from the brands who make our clothes. However, for a more thorough and holistic shift in these issues, we need the involvement of governments, particularly where laws are concerned.

I wonder at what point in our modern history we degenerated into thinking human life was so worthless. When did it become okay to place profits and economic growth over human lives under the guise of progress? Or has this notion altogether been slyly omitted from the era of modernity and civilisation? Earlier this year the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) trade agreement came to my attention through AFTINET (Australian Fair Trade & Investment Network) and a human rights campaign created by ActionAid Australia called #TransformTradeForWomen. RCEP is a trade agreement potentially in its last leg of negotiations. If signed in its current state, it will have laws that in essence, trade corporate profits over human rights and the environment. Sadly, this notion of profit over people and planet appears to be a fundamental principle driving much of the top-level decision-making in many governments and business corporations.

Free trade agreements (FTAs) are international treaties between two or more nations that set the rules regarding trade and investment. FTAs reduce barriers to trade by giving more rights to corporations and reducing tax on imports for example. Through giving more rights to multinational corporations as an incentive to trade, they can create access to new markets for businesses in a nation and increased opportunities for foreign investment in that country. The idea is to boost economic growth of member nations. However, it’s quickly becoming a well-known fact that FTAs are rigged in favour of multinational corporations.  These agreements are increasingly becoming booby trapped with policies that heavily impact lives and rights of workers, especially women. RCEP is a massive free trade agreement between 16 member states that collectively make up nearly half of the world’s population. They include Australia, New Zealand and fourteen Asian nations, including the ten ASEAN member states. This agreement will have huge socio-economic ramifications on low-income countries – the workers, women and of course the garment workers. Therefore, if this deal goes through in the present form, it’ll boost the power of multinational corporations, to operate in ways that further damage the environment and human rights.

Whenever there’s a disaster of some kind, economic downturn or similar circumstance, women are always hit the hardest. About 80% of garment workers in the world are women. Because a significant portion of garments is made in some of the RCEP nations, the agreement can potentially have a lasting impact on the outcome of sustainability in the fashion industry (and other industries too). As FTAs are covertly designed to profit corporations at the expense of everyday people, the matter is systemically linked to women’s rights, gender equality and poverty. Therefore, signing a trade agreement with such a broad-stroke impact under these circumstances amounts to an act of brinkmanship.

According to information gathered by AFTINET, these are some of the ramifications of FTAs and RCEP:

1. The threat to women’s access to decent jobs

Trade agreements encourage multinational companies to manufacture in sectors like clothing by driving down wages and undermining worker’s rights. This is partially because normal labour rights and standards may not apply within designated “special economic zones”, drafted in some trade deals. RCEP will make provisions for corporations to employ and pay women unfair, low wages. It will validate corporations employing women in poor, sometimes unsafe working conditions. This is already a huge problem in low-income states; therefore, it will make it harder to find solutions to end exploitation and eradicate poverty cycles. Ultimately, it would make it even harder for female garment workers to find some form of self-empowerment.  

2. Temporary migrant workers could face increased exploitation

Temporary migration can be an avenue for women from low-income countries to make higher incomes, however, the reality is that these women often end up being exploited in poorly paid sectors.

3. Environment and climate change

FTAs can propel climate damage and threaten action on climate change. By inciting companies to take their manufacturing and polluting operations to nations with lower environmental safeguards, FTAs can contribute to climate change and other environmental issues. They also place barriers on the ability of governments to respond to climate change, which is unjustly impacting women around the world.

Some FTAs have a clause called the ‘Investor State Dispute Settlement’ (ISDS), which is a policy designed to give multinational corporations the impetus to sue governments if they feel a change in national law or policy will reduce their profits. For example, raising the minimum wage or laws to reduce carbon pollution. In other words, corporations can sue governments over laws that protect women’s rights over profits. Many cases presently being deliberated under trade deals include mining companies suing governments because of foregone profits from environmental regulations.

UN specialists have contributed to this theory, noting that the fear of being sued means governments are less inclined to pass laws that are crucial for people and planet. As of mid-September 2019, RCEP has excluded the ISDS clause from the deal.

4. E-Commerce inequality

In an article written in The Interpreter, Rahul Nath Choudhury has voiced concern from the perspective of most developing countries about the inclusion of e-commerce within FTAs. Some feel that it’s a covert method of using international rules that favour big tech corporations from developed countries to exclude developing countries from the digital economy.  

5. Access to public services like healthcare and education.

FTAs in general need tariffs to be reduced, which in turn minimises government revenue available for public services like healthcare, transport, and education which are a critical part of ensuring that women’s basic needs are met. By doing this they disable gender equality.

Healthcare – Amongst other health matters, AFTINET Convener, Dr Pat Ranald expressed concern over RCEP proposals for long-term monopolies on medicines that would delay the ability of affordable, generic medicines to be made available in developing countries.

Education - The lack of access to education for women and girls has a huge domino effect on so many things. It makes them more vulnerable to things like modern slavery, early childhood marriages, trafficking, etc.

Women make up more than half of the world’s population. And one can even say, that, that in itself equates to an enormous pool of resource and potential. UN Women has said, “Increasing women’s and girls’ educational attainment contributes to women’s economic empowerment and more inclusive economic growth.” Educating women and girls is the key to solving so many of the world’s problems. It means they’ll have opportunities to participate, contribute and have more leadership opportunities. And when it comes to issues like economic growth, empowering half of the population seems like a very long-term strategy for ensuring continued economic growth. So, when you look at it from that angle, it’s not practical to allow women to be disempowered in these ways. It really makes no sense at all to ignore the rights of women, particularly at the top level-decision-making. It affects economic development, politics, social development and the GDP. Billions of dollars of development and growth are lost from denying women access to education and from disempowering them. This is a fundamental pathway to creating positive change in the world. When women are empowered, the entire family, community and nation benefits. Which means the world benefits.

Just as women in the global north experience pay gaps, inequality, harassment and discrimination, women in low-income countries experience these injustices to a much higher degree. So, I believe that Western people being in a position of higher privilege, have the power to shift circumstances towards positive change, not only for garment workers but women in general.

FTAs can be a great way to systemise women’s rights. We have agency to use agreements like RCEP to change circumstances that will have huge ramifications on half of the globe in regard to women’s lives, communities and future generations. This is crucial not only for economic development but for progression in areas of politics, wellbeing, health, science and climate action. It will be on point for us to have RCEP amended to include the rights of women. And furthermore, using the gravitas of such an agreement, make it the standard for all future trade agreements to have women’s rights as a fundamental requirement before the drafting process even begins.

This is not just a women’s fight for women, it’s a people’s fight for the progression of humanity. And we hope that governments can see the value in it as well.

AFTINET - To stay up-to-date with developments on RCEP, follow AFTINET here.

ActionAid Australia - To learn more and support #TransformTradeForWomen, sign ActionAid’s RCEP petition here. You can also do the following:

  • Look into joining your local activist group and find out how you can get involved with a campaign in your community.

  • Watch their events page to find out if there is a campaign event happening near you. 

  • Donate to help power the campaign and make sure they have the resources to run hard-hitting stunts, grow public support across Australia, and use creative tactics to target key decision-makers.

  • Follow ActionAid on FacebookInstagram and Twitter to make sure you’re first to hear all the latest ways to take action on a campaign.

 Dr Patricia Ranald, Convenor of AFTINET will be speaking at The True Cost Movie screening event organised by ActionAid Australia on October 30th. Find tickets here.

- Nina Gbor

Sources: http://aftinet.org.au/cms/Regional-Comprehensive-Economic-Partnership-RCEP https://actionaid.org.au/actions/rcep-petition/

Secret Sisterhood social enterprise for women by Nina Gbor

Nina Gbor on the left hand side. Jacquie Love on the right hand side.

Nina Gbor on the left hand side. Jacquie Love on the right hand side.

I’m all for social enterprises that empower, uplift and inspire women. I spotted the lovely Jacquie Love outside of the International Women’s Day event, held by the UN Women National Committee Australia in Canberra last month. 

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Jacquie was raising funds for UN Women’s gender inequality initiatives by selling beautiful jewellery she designs for the label she founded, Secret Sisterhood. It’s a mission/purpose driven social enterprise that employs women in India to make the jewellery and then gives 100% of profits to charities aimed at ending gender inequality. 

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Secret Sisterhood is also a movement, a growing community of women and girls with the collective goal of ending gender equality. They are a global community connecting through events, services and of course jewellery.  One of the things that caught my eye at the UN Women event were the compliment cards from Secret Sisterhood. Inscribed with phrases like “You are really strong” or “You should be so proud”, this is the perfect thing to completely shift someone’s day into a happy one. I might even keep a few in my wallet as my self-love affirmations.

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I also loved their Intentional Words jewellery line each with words like Love, Gratitude, Kindness and Peace. These are pieces I would wear with nearly any style of outfit. It feels good having a positive word or symbol with me all day long. 

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Needless to say, I’m now officially a fan of Secret Sisterhood. It’s one of the exemplary enterprises, showing how a business can be run in a way that uplifts, supports everyone involved.  

*Photos from Nina Gbor and supplied by Secret Sisterhood

♥ Nina Gbor

 

Regina style magic by Nina Gbor

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Regina. Whenever I look at this regal, majestic vintage piece, the name Regina comes to mind. She is a royal, bold goddess but at the same time, soft and romantic. Regina is an original 1960s, cotton Malaysian maxi dress I found at Three Sixty vintage market a couple of years ago. When I spotted a magenta fabric sticking out in between a tightly-packed rack of vintage goodies, I knew straight away she was meant for me. Magenta colour on my skin tone is a match made in heaven.

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Regina with her vibrant colour, queenly cut, puffy sleeves, collar, full, long skirt and soft, light fabric is without a doubt, a one-of-a-kind piece. She is an ensemble with a life of her own that wears you, instead of the other way round. She turns heads and commands respect. This was the persona that overcame me the day I wore Regina.

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This occurrence is what I call style magic. It’s the boost in confidence or the shift in energy you get from an outfit. If you wear the uniform of a queen, you start to feel like a queen, and therefore act like a queen. If you’re lucky you might even become one! This is the philosophy I use with my style clients to help them look, feel and achieve their goals. It’s style alchemy. Style can be used to evolve to the best version of yourself. Yes, I just gave you on a style personal development strategy. Try it and let me know how it works for you.

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STYLING

The look: Naturally, I chose a white belt to synch in at the waist with Regina. This particular belt has an art deco buckle. As a lover of 50s fashion, I spend about 70% of my life in a petticoat so Regina was no exception. It gives the skirt a fuller look and emphasises the synched in waist. I finished this look with white ankle boot shoes.

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Style tip: With its light fabric, a dress like this can be worn in summer with sandals or other summer shoes. It’s great for protecting your skin from the sun.

Try: This dress, like most dresses can double up as a top. Achieve this tip simply by wearing a skirt over it like I did in this throwback photo. I wore a 1960s vintage Sally Browne plaid skirt over the dress.

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Autumn/Winter Styling: Most Winter clothes are dark and neutral, and I believe in bringing bright, vibrant colour to those cold, dreary Winter days to cheer things up. Because of its long sleeves, I wear thermals (long-sleeve t-shirt and leggings) underneath this dress in Winter to stay warm, yet stylish. And then boots to finish off the Winter look. You can try this trick with your summer maxi dresses.

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Outfits sourced from:

Regina 1960s vintage dressThreeSixty Vintage Market

1960s Sally Browne vintage Skirt ThreeSixty Vintage Market

White art deco belt and white shoesSalvos Stores Op Shop

Photography by Angela Elgiva. Throwback photo by Oliver Weiler.

♥ Nina Gbor












Staying off the fashion trendmill in Aztec by Nina Gbor

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I NEVER follow fashion trends. I coined the phrase “Get off the fashion trendmill” to let my styling clients and workshop participants know it was okay to ignore fashion trends. The culture of following trends is one of the biggest contributors to fast fashion and fashion landfill waste. Plus, trends do not suit everyone. Instead, I encourage people to find style wellbeing. This means wearing clothes that make you happy and filling your wardrobe with pieces that suit your body, lifestyle, goals and personality.

Speaking of personality, this Aztec-pattern hoodie had me hooked from the moment we met in a Salvation Army op shop. There’s nothing else like it in my wardrobe, plus it’s a major diversion from the typical 50s style dresses that grace my closet. Yet, something about it connected to the less visible quirky side of my personality that was clearly screaming to get out. I had the same love-at-first-sight when I spotted these denim, rhinestone, stiletto knee-high boots at a preloved store.

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No matter how much people try to influence how you should look, you know yourself better than anyone else. Following trends or styles that don’t align with who you are can create some inner turmoil, not to mention fashion disasters. You’re likely to have better mental and emotional health by staying true to who you are and wearing clothes that align with your truth. It’s great for emotional balance and growing your confidence.

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STYLING

The look: I’m wearing the hoodie with a black long-sleeve thermal, black leggings and denim knee-high stiletto boots. This is an everyday, casual Autumn/Winter look for me.

Style tip: A hoodie like this can typically be worn with jeans, shorts or even a straight knee-length skirt. Boots of this length and style will look nice with above-the-knee or knee-length skirts.

Outfit sourced from:

Aztec-pattern hoodie: Salvos Stores Op Shop

Denim boots: Gulia Preloved & Vintage Store, New Town, Sydney

Photos by Brunela Fenalte Photography

♥ Nina Gbor



Fashion and the environment by Nina Gbor

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Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Majority of fashion’s environmental impact occurs during production. Whether the fabric is plant-based, animal-based or from crude oil, processes for conversion to fabric are environmentally intensive. Fashion consumption and disposal are also big contributors to environmental pollution.


Greenhouse Gas Emissions

The apparel and footwear industries are responsible for 8-10% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions. And the climate effect of the fashion industry by the year 2030 is forecast to reach a near equivalent level with that of US’ current total annual greenhouse gas emissions (currently 4.9 gigatonnes of carbon dioxide).

The production, manufacture, transportation of millions of pieces of garments each year contributes to these high emission levels. In addition, countries powered by fossil fuels like Bangladesh, China and India are the biggest producers of apparel. To make matters worse, majority of modern clothing are made from petrochemical derivatives (polyester, nylon, acrylic) and require more energy-intensive processing that natural fibres (organic cotton, silk, wool, linen, cashmere, mohair).

Water Usage

When it comes to making textiles, a huge amount of water is used, For instance, it takes 2,700 litres to make one t-shirt! 20,000 litres of water is used to produce just 1 litre of cotton! The amount of water needed for growing cotton can lead to the risk of drought in some countries. An example is the Aral Sea which was once home to over 40,000 fishermen. Due to over-irrigation for cotton farming, the Aral Sea has become desert-like.

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Water Pollution

Waste water containing toxic chemicals like lead, arsenic and mercury are pumped into the rivers and seas of the developing countries where they are produced from the factories. This is hazardous to the millions of people living in those areas as well as aquatic life.  From the seas, this toxicity eventually spreads round the world.

Toxic Chemical Pollution

Dyes, bleaches and other toxic chemicals are used in the production of clothing. These chemicals containing toxins, carcinogens and hormone disruptors remain on the clothing that we are sold in retail stores. Our skin is the largest organ of the body and the chemicals on our clothes can be absorbed through the skin, making this a real health hazard causing illness and potentially infertility. It’s advisable to wash all new clothes before wearing them.

The widespread use of chemicals, fertilisers and pesticides for cotton farming has been causing diseases and the early death of thousands of people for years in communities where they are used. In addition to soil degradation, massive freshwater bodies and the oceans have been polluted by these chemicals.

Microfibre (Plastic) Pollution

Synthetic fabrics (mostly plastic) are the most commonly used fabric in contemporary fashion. When washed, a polyester garment will shed 1,900 non-biodegradable microfibres that wash into the waters and eventually into the oceans. Microfibres constitute 85% of plastic pollution along shorelines. In addition to increasing oceanic plastic pollution, it’s a threat to aquatic life. Plastic absorbs chemicals. Small aquatic creatures eat the microfibres which eventually make their way up the food chain and onto our food plates, laced with carcinogenic chemicals. It’s best to opt for natural fabrics.

Soil Degradation

This is a huge environmental issue as it has an impact on both global food security and global warming. Healthy soil absorbs CO2 and it’s crucial for the ecosystem. Through the plentiful use of chemicals, deforestation and overgrazing of pastures from sheep and goats raised for wool production, the fashion industry has increased soil degradation.

Landfill Pollution

Currently we consume about 400% more clothing every year than we did 20 years ago with 80 billion new pieces every year, globally. In Australia, 85% of our new textiles end up in landfill every year and we throw out 6,000 kilos of fashion waste every 10 minutes.  This waste epidemic is because of fast fashion. Profit-driven fashion retailers use clever marketing for massive brainwashing so that in spite of having full wardrobes, shoppers feel they need to always have the latest trends. We can’t keep up with the cycle of trends, and nor can we consume at the rate at which we’re buying so we throw out many of our clothes. My solution; we need to GET OFF THE FASHION TRENDMILL and ignore the trend altogether.

Solutions

We’re beyond the point of needing positive change in this area. Whether or not you’re a follower of the latest trends, much of the stock in conventional retail stores are based on short fashion trends with synthetic fabrics that will be replaced by the next cycle in a small period of time.

Each garment has a story and a journey and it’s wonderful when you cherish it and look after your clothes for the long term. As a stylist, I recommend buying clothes that fit your colouring, body shape, personality and lifestyle instead of trends so that you love them for much longer. In all cases, natural fabrics are the best option. Three basic things you can do to build a sustainable wardrobe are

1. Before you buy, ask yourself if you really need it and how often you will use the garment. If it’s for one occasion, short term or just to feel good in the moment, consider, hiring or borrowing instead.  

2. Buy new from Ethical Labels. These are the brands that go far as they can to ensure everyone in the supply chain is paid a fair wage and minimal damage is done to the environment in manufacture and if possible, disposal. Use apps like Good on You to identify ethical brands.

3. Buy Preloved. Shop at op shops, markets, clothes swaps, garage sales, hand-me-downs, eBay, Carousell and other online second-hand platforms.