Fashion's impact on climate change; government, industry and consumer suggestions for net zero / March 9, 2020 by Nina Gbor

As part of the National Sustainable Living Festival this year, I gave a talk about how fashion impacts climate change with suggestions for how we can make changes to achieve net zero emissions. The event, Fashion Apocalypse, was organised, by the Coalition of Everyone. It was designed as a mock Citizens’ Assembly to engage participants from all walks to contribute and build empowering solutions to a would-be fashion climate emergency. I’ve combined the findings from my research and talk into this article. I’ll first explain why fashion is detrimental to the environment before I go into how it impacts the climate, and then delve into policy recommendations for consumers, industry and government to work together towards a common goal of net zero emissions.

One of the working groups at Coalition of Everyone’s Mock Assembly event. Photo: Grace O’Hara.

THE PROBLEM

Scientists are saying we only have about 10 years to take significant measures to keep global temperatures from rising more than 1.5 degrees Celsius, compared to pre-industrial levels. And on that note, avoid the irreversible environmental destruction that can threaten all of humanity. This is the goal of the Paris Agreement. For this to happen, carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions will need to be on track to decrease by about 45 percent by 2030. The greenhouse gases from the fashion and apparel industry contributes to about 10% of climate change. Therefore, it has an urgent role to play in climate action.

The 2019 Fashion Revolution Report indicated that only a little over 100 of fashion’s top brands publish their annual carbon footprint on their websites. More than half of the industry’s emissions occur in the supply chain and only 19.5% disclose their emissions in this area.

The fashion and apparel industry is worth approximately $1.8 trillion dollars. Fast fashion’s trend and throwaway culture is based on a lucrative business model where retail stores produce clothing very cheaply and intended for short-term use. Primarily made of synthetic textiles, the manufacture, consumption and disposal operations are laden with processes that damage the environment in major ways. The concept of following fashion trends is the fuel that drives the fast fashion dilemma. The business model enables fast fashion companies to skyrocket profits by selling clothes based on daily / weekly rapidly turning fashion trends. Shortly after manufacture, fast fashion apparel is quickly disposed of in favour of the next set of trends, then the new trends are soon after disposed of as well. And so, the linear cycle continues, earning the industry the title of being one of the most polluting industries in the world.

We’re buying more clothes than ever before, wearing them fewer times, repairing them less, and throwing them away sooner. Approximately, 150 billion brand new garments are being manufactured every year which is 400% more than we were consuming more than two decades ago. 85% of textiles and apparel purchased end up in landfill within a year. And less than 1 % of used clothing is recycled into new garments. The average consumer bought 60% more clothes in 2014 than in the year 2000 but kept each garment for half as long. If demographic and lifestyle patterns continue as they are now, global consumption of apparel will rise from 62 million metric tonnes (as per 2019) to 102 million tonnes by 2030.

HOW FASHION IMPACTS CLIMATE CHANGE

These are several leading ways that fashion impacts climate change:

Greenhouse gases
Water usage
Chemicals & pesticides
Textile waste
Synthetic textiles
Landfill and emissions
Energy
Deforestation

Greenhouse Gases

The fashion and textiles industry is creating 92 million tonnes of textile waste and 1.7 billion tonnes of CO2 emissions which is more than that of all international flights and marine shipping combined. At the current rate, the fashion industry's greenhouse gas emissions will spike more than 50% by 2030. And by 2050, use up a quarter of the world’s carbon budget needed to keep the planet below 2 degrees of warming. The fashion industry’s emissions are estimated to be close to that of Russia’s.

Water Usage

Every year the fashion industry uses 93 billion cubic meters of water — enough to meet the consumption needs of five million people. According to figures from the United Nations Environment Programme, it takes 3,781 litres of water to make a pair of jeans. And 2,700 litres of water to make just one cotton t-shirt. That’s equivalent to 3 years’ worth of drinking water for one person. If you were to multiply the number of t-shirts in your wardrobe by 2,700 litres, that’s just a fraction of the amount of water in one wardrobe!

Cotton is in 40% of our garments. It’s the single largest water consumption factor in fashion and textiles. 93 billion cubic metres of water is used in cotton production per year, with 10,000 – 20,000 litres of water needed to make just 1kg of clothing. This puts an incredible amount of stress on water supply in Central Asia, India and China. Regions in these countries are already contending with water scarcity linked to climate change. The Aral Sea in Uzbekistan is a prime example. Once the fourth largest fresh lake in the world and home to over 40,000 fishermen, it has become an arid desert, due to over-irrigation from cotton farming.

Abandoned ships at landscape that was formerly the Aral Sea. Photo: Lochner.

Chemicals & Pesticides

Chemicals:

Water pollution - A quarter of the chemicals produced in the world are used in textiles. With the textile industry being one of the most chemically intensive industries on earth, it has turned out to be the second biggest polluter of freshwater resources on the planet. A United Nations study stated that the fashion industry is responsible for 20% of all waste water which mainly comes from fabric dyeing and treatment. Chemicals are used during other manufacturing processes, such as fibre production, bleaching, printing, washing and finishing. In countries where garment manufacture occurs, untreated toxic waste and fabric dyes from local factories are dumped into the rivers and water bodies. This impacts the communities where this happens by destroying their access to clean, potable water. The chemicals cause high levels of cancer and other illnesses for the people who live in these areas. The contamination is also hazardous to aquatic wildlife. It streams into the seas and then infiltrates waterways around the world.

Considering only 2.5% of the Earth’s water is freshwater and only 0.3% of that is accessible to humans, the urgency for the industry to take drastic action is high.

Pesticides

Cotton makes up almost half of the total fibre used to make clothing. It’s the world’s single largest pesticide-consuming crop. Cotton fields globally account for 2.4% of cultivated land, but consume 18% of all pesticide use and 25% of total insecticide use.

Textile Waste

85% of apparel purchased end up in landfill. The average consumer bought 60% more clothes in 2014 than in the year 2000 but kept each garment for half as long.

Due to fashion oversupply, one garbage truck of clothes is sent to landfill or burned every second, according to the World Resources Institute. Burberry for instance, incinerated $150 million worth of stock within a 5-year period. Burning textiles exacerbates global warming by emitting greenhouse gases including carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

Synthetic Textiles

Microfibres - Synthetic textiles make up 72% of clothing and are one of the main sources of microplastic pollution and account for 35% of all microplastics. The most common materials used in clothing manufacture are polyester (55%), followed by nylon (5%) and acrylic (2%). Nylon produces nitrous oxide which is a greenhouse gas 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide.

Not only are synthetics non-biodegradable, they all rely on the petrochemical industries for their raw material, meaning because it’s a staple, the fashion industry is dependent on fossil fuel extraction. Synthetics made from this source are a form of plastic. Approximately 70 million barrels of oil are used to make polyester fabric each year, which has become the most commonly used fabric in our clothing.

Every year, half a million tons of plastic microfibers (equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles) end up in the ocean when we wash our synthetic garments. Microfibers cannot be extracted from the water. This threatens marine wildlife. It also ends up in our food supply when the water or seafood is consumed. This can impact our physical health.

Landfill and Emissions

Synthetic textiles, which is what a big portion of clothing is made of, can take more than 200 years to decompose in landfill. In this condition, they release the toxic gas, methane, which being 21 times more potent that carbon dioxide, is incredibly hazardous to the environment and contributes towards climate change.

Materials like leather are also responsible for huge methane outputs. Extinction Rebellion states that one billion animals are killed for leather every year.

Energy

The emissions footprint of a garment happens throughout its life cycle. Past the initial raw materials process, energy is consumed in crop and fibre production, manufacturing, transporting, packaging, warehousing and selling the garment.

Manufacturing takes up an estimated 80% of energy used in textile manufacture. Factories consume much energy and, in that regard, emit a high level of greenhouse gases. A significant proportion of clothing is manufactured in countries like India and China, where there is major reliance on coal-fuelled power plants. This increases the footprint of each garment.

The supply chain requires 10 times more energy to produce a ton of textiles than it does to produce a ton of glass. Electricity is a huge element in the textile supply chain and one of the most used forms of energy. 75% – 80% of energy consumption happens after a garment is purchased because of laundry activities.

Deforestation

Fashion’s impact on deforestation comes from textile manufacture. The process of converting wood to fabric is chemically-intensive and wastes 70% of the tree. The common textiles in this method are rayon, lyocell, viscose and modal. According to Canopy, 150 million trees are cut each year and processed down to a pulp which is later spun into fabrics.

With cotton being the biggest agricultural plant used for clothing manufacture, land clearing for cotton farming is a major issue where deforestation is concerned. Forests are crucial for maintaining harmony of the earth’s complex ecosystems. They balance the gases in the atmosphere, clean the air and produce the oxygen that we breathe. Around a third of the CO2 emitted (approximately 2.6 billion tonnes) from burning fossil fuels is absorbed by forests every year. In the period of climate change, we sincerely need forests.

Coalition of Everyone event. Photo: Grace O’Hara.

POLICY RECOMMENDATIONS

If we’re aiming to reach net-zero emissions, drastic changes need to happen immediately. However, we can all play a part in helping these shifts take place, as individuals (consumers), industry or government. Here are some recommendations:

1. INDIVIDUALS

Change the fashion throwaway culture

Overproduction, overconsumption and waste are responsible for fashion’s emission levels. The trend culture needs to end. The fast fashion industry thrives on convincing people to purchase weekly trends of new fast fashion apparel. This super-fast turnover is at the very core of fashion’s environmental degradation. We need to rethink and change the disposable fast fashion culture by ‘getting off the fashion trendmill’. This requires a 180-degree shift in mindset and approach to clothing consumption.

Brand new apparel

Individuals can disrupt the industry by demanding and monitoring fashion brands consistently until it becomes standard practice that all clothing is manufactured with environmental best practice
All new garments purchased should be from ethical brands who take all necessary measures to ensure minimal emission levels
Apparel purchased should be made of natural textiles such as organic linen, mohair and wool
Only buy what you need and have a plan for sustainable disposal e.g. upcycling, donation.

Nurture the circular economy

Essentially, this is recycling in different contexts. It keeps clothes out of landfill by reusing the surplus garments already in existence. If the number of times a garment is worn is doubled on average, the GHG emissions would be 44 % lower. The ultimate goal here is to phase out fast fashion.

Hire / rent clothing from clothing libraries and wardrobe subscription platforms
Repair, attend, use and host clothes swaps and repair cafes
Buy second-hand apparel and textiles
Individuals are encouraged to remake and redesign existing garments so we can minimise or end the use of raw materials
Wash your clothing less often and air dry instead of machine dry. Use the machine wash on cold setting.

2. INDUSTRY

With the backing of UN Climate Change, fashion stakeholders in 2018 created the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action as a holistic commitment to climate action. In keeping with the target of the Paris Agreement, the charter contains a directive to analyse and set a decarbonization pathway for the fashion industry. The charter also includes a target of 30% GHG emission reductions by 2030.

Manufacture

All brand-new garments should be made using natural textiles such as organic cotton, organic bamboo, organic hemp, organic linen, mohair, wool, cashmere, etc
Production of textiles should be entirely without chemical pesticides, fertilisers and toxic dyes with preference given to crops that require less water in their creation
Garments can be produced on a need basis to prevent oversupply. This will end landfill waste. Put a stop to the incineration of clothing stock oversupply to protect brand image.

Circular economy (making fashion circular)

Brands can offer free repair services for their products where possible. This will encourage brands to produce better quality, more durable, lasting products
Standardise and systemise circular economy channels like wardrobe exchange and clothing subscription services
Education - Designers can be trained in zero-waste and eco designing. Purchasing managers can learn about environmental auditing standards and production managers can be educated on chemicals that cause environmental damage
Industry can standardise the harvesting of existing fabrics (like vintage, deadstock and preloved) to remake and redesign ‘new’ fabrics and garments. This will minimise or end the use of precious raw materials and preserve life sources like water.
* Sustainable synthetics (Patagonia) - switching from conventional to organic cotton can cut harmful emissions by 46%, as the nitrogen waste from fertilisers is eliminated. A switch from virgin polyester to recycled material – made by mechanically or chemically breaking down plastic drinks bottles – can reduce the carbon footprint of polyester by 40%.

Internal measures

Reduce and save energy along the value chain of brands beyond the materials stage e.g. energy use in their warehouses, stores, offices, logistical operations like transportation
The reporting of emissions can be made public.

ASOS cut its electricity use in one warehouse by 76% by switching to energy-efficient light bulbs. Sensors that turn lights off in empty rooms can help too.

Finding efficiencies at the transport and logistics stages can help businesses’ environmental practices. When Hugo Boss analysed the carbon footprint of their transport operations, they realised switching from air to rail freight could cut emissions by 95%.

3. GOVERNMENT

“What is needed are commitments – bold target setting – [from the] fashion industry; at the moment [we’re] not going fast enough… Government regulations can help increase the pace; if there were a tax on carbon or on water, [that could] move big sections of the industry.”
- Eva Kruse, President and CEO of the Global Fashion Agenda

Legislation

Quotas on manufacture and import levels to curb oversupply and waste. Only what is absolutely needed is manufactured
Increased amount of reforestation programs
Incineration of clothing by brands should be made illegal
Fashion brands to have emissions and water usage taxes levied.

Renewable energy (from Fashion Industry’s Charter for Climate Action)

Governments can assist industry in the following ways:

Supportive, transparent and predictable planning contexts for renewable energy investment such as ensuring clear communication of government energy roadmaps.
Agility in responding to rapid scale-up of grid-connected renewable energy sources. And the assurance of a just and sustainable transition in the rapid phase-out of the highest-emitting fossil-fuel-based sources of energy
Through the provision of feed-in tariffs to manufacturers and suppliers, for instance, government can make provisions for incentives for quick transition to renewable energy that generates electricity from renewable sources. Ideally it will feed their excess electricity into the public electricity grid
Ensuring the availability of credible and legal renewable electricity tariffs and power purchase agreements for fashion brands and manufacturers to purchase as part of their efforts in reducing their greenhouse gas emissions
Through research and incentives for alternative biomass sources, government can develop a conducive atmosphere to enable swift phase out of non-renewable energy sources for all high-heat or non-grid processes.

Transition and availability of resources

Working with the Fashion Industry to understand and address potential barriers to sector transformation, uptake of energy efficiency and renewable energy technology with a focus on understanding the key role of tariffs, subsidies or legal barriers at the state and national levels.
Provision of easily accessible resources for fashion climate initiatives to prosper and thrive in the following areas:

§ Funding

§ Research & support

§ Circular economy systems

§ New innovative and sustainable textiles e.g. Pinatex, Activated Silk and Mycellium

§ New innovative tech e.g. Microplastic-proof washing machines and Cora Ball

§ Knowledge share

§ Education

§ Collaborations

Working Groups

Active and consistent Working Groups will be required to identify and amplify best practices, strengthen existing efforts, identify and address gaps, facilitate and strengthen collaboration among relevant stakeholders. They can facilitate the joining of resources and sharing of tools to enable the sector to achieve and maintain its climate targets.

Working groups can be made of professionals, experts, consumers, influencers and initiatives in the fashion and broader textile sector. They can include political leaders of countries that have major fashion production and consumer markets. Working collaboratively to deliver on the recommendations above and the principles enshrined in the charter, will likely sustain the commitment to achieve and retain net zero emissions by 2030.

♥ Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles

References:

Why secondhand fashion (thrifting) is not about being cheap / March 2, 2020 by Nina Gbor

perri cutten nina gbor sustainable fashion 1

Like most of my outfits, this ensemble is preloved. The top is from an op shop and the skirt is from a luxury/designer second-hand store. I’ve been op shopping and eco styling since the age of fifteen. Even though I’ve forged a purpose-driven career of fashion sustainability and climate activism from it, I realise that many still hold the view that preloved apparel is something taboo, shameful or only for those with low incomes.

With the plight of fast fashion where 80 to 150 billion new garments are manufactured every year, we’re consuming approximately 400% more than we did over 20 years ago. We’re buying more, wearing less and sending nearly three-fifths of likely reusable (and sometimes still new) garments to landfill or incineration each year. The fashion and textile over-consumption and waste problem are a major dilemma in climate change. This is why choosing preloved clothing can no longer be seen as just a money-saving endeavour. It is a planet-saving one.

retro skirt pattern skirt nina gbor slow fashion

For years I’ve shared images of preloved outfits from op shops, thrift stores, clothes swaps, vintage stores and markets. The intention is not only to share what I enjoy, but mainly to shift the negative stereotypes around second-hand clothing. If I’m able to fascinate with a glorious masterpiece sourced from op shopping, then I always hope it will inspire the start of people’s slow fashion journeys. Op shops and preloved sources have the unique ability to bless you with the magical experience of finding that rare piece that lights up your world when you wear it.

However, I never mention the price of the pieces I wear because I believe it might not be best to focus solely on the affordability factor. Preloved clothing is for everyone, of every income level and background. Therefore, price should not be the only reason to op shop. It’s a given that preloved clothing is cheaper. And it’s perfectly okay that some can only afford to shop at thrift stores. However, for those who still think it’s only good for when you’re on a shoestring budget, here are some reasons to go preloved:

Buying one used item reduces its carbon footprint by 82%.
Op shops are charities that use their funds to help disadvantaged, marginalised and vulnerable groups like children, the homeless and victims of domestic violence.
The eclectic range of preloved clothing in stores and online lets you sample and mix clothing of multiple styles, genres and eras. It lets you see yourself in a different light, as a suggestion that anything is possible for you. With that, it becomes empowering and makes your style unique and iconic.

designer skirt nina gbor ethical fashion 1

STYLING

This retro pattern skirt is the centre piece in this look. In being simplistic, I chose a blue top that has chemistry with the blue lines in the skirt. This light blue shade of the top complements or works well with any of the other colours of the skirt: purple, pink, black or royal blue.

Styling tip:

I wore this elegant piece to play in the sand but by all means, try wearing a pair of dress shoes, button down shirt or silk blouse with a skirt like this. It converts it to a look to wear to the office, an art exhibition or other occasion. If you’re bold enough, dare to pattern clash this skirt by wearing it with a floral, polka dot or patterned top with corresponding colours.

Outfit sourced from:

Blue Armani Top - The Green Shed Op Shop

Perri Cutten Retro Skirt – Second Mode Luxury & Designer Preloved Store

♥ Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles

Photography by Pepper Street Photography

References:

https://www.thredup.com/resale?tswc_redir=true

https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2020/1/27/21080107/fashion-environment-facts-statistics-impact

Net-zero emissions; all hail ethical fashion brands like Etiko / February 24, 2020 by Nina Gbor

The Pulse of the Fashion Industry report once forecast that at the current rate, fashion emissions would grow 63% by 2030. In the quest to achieve net-zero emissions and make slow fashion the standard for all fashion manufacture, it’s absolutely necessary to give accolades to ethical clothing brands who strive to end fashion’s impact on climate change.

These brands have environmental best practice, living wages and human rights advocacy as the cornerstone of their businesses. Brands like Etiko are a guiding light for manufacturing optimum ethical standards where the planet and people are concerned.

In operation since 2005, Etiko was the first fashion brand in the southern hemisphere to have acquired fairtrade certification. They also have GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification and B Corp certifications. The inspiration for this business model came at a time when it was more challenging to find a company whose products were not made using child labour or unfair wages to workers in another country. They decided to be that brand. They ensure living wages are paid to their workers who are all based in Sri Lanka, India, Pakistan and Australia.

Organic cotton

They make athleisure, basics, underwear, shoes and sports apparel. With an annual estimate of 55 million tonnes of pesticide being used on cotton crops, these toxic chemicals end up in local water bodies and oceans, endangering wildlife, humans and the eco system. For this reason, 100% GOTS organic cotton is what Etiko uses for their clothing and footwear.

Vegan friendly

According to the Food & Agriculture Orgnaisation of the U.N., 18% of all greenhouse gas emissions are from animal agriculture. To minimise carbon footprint, their apparel, like their sneakers are vegan friendly.

Natural rubber

The rubber used comes from rubber trees in Sri Lanka. Natural rubber, unlike petroleum based rubber is naturally extracted from sustainably farmed trees that do not release harmful gases and chemicals. Moreover, natural rubber is 100% biodegradable.

Emissions

For several years, Etiko has been on track to achieving net-zero carbon emissions target for their entire supply chain by the end of this year. It’s not too difficult to see why they have won multiple awards in the sustainability & social impact space such as: A+ in Ethical Fashion Report 2013 – 2017, Human Rights Award 2016, Golden Greenies Award 2012 and the Telstra Business Awards 2008.

The more we acknowledge, support and endorse ethical brands, the sooner they will become standard in retail and furthermore, the possibility of having a fashion industry with net-zero emissions will become a reality.

Etiko fairtrade nina gbor slow fashion 1

STYLING

Because I’m nearly obsessed with polka dots, I chose this skirt for this ensemble. I wore my signature ‘50s petticoat with the skirt then paired it with my black Etiko organic cotton t-shirt. No surprises that I’m wearing a waist belt as I often do with a ‘50s style skirt or dress. It really helps to synch in the waist. I completed the look with my red Etiko vegan sneakers.

Colour wise, the black on my t-shirt connects with the black dots on my skirt. The white text on my skirt connects with the white on my skirt (and also the white shoes laces and soles) and then the red on the t-shirt connects with the red of the sneakers. So basic!

Styling tips

True style is all about wearing pieces your own way and putting your own personal signature on them. You can wear a t-shirt and sneakers like these with almost anything. Nothing screams instant style confidence like wearing bold coloured sneakers with an otherwise plain or unflattering ensemble. Try it out for yourself!

Outfit sourced from:

Etiko Black ‘Wear No Evil’ Organic T-shirt – Etiko

White & Black Polka Dot Skirt – Gigi’s Fairy Fashion

Etiko Red Lowcut, Fairtrade, Vegan Sneakers - Etiko

Photography by Pepper Street Photography.

https://etiko.com.au/

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jun/23/five-ways-fashion-damages-the-planet

http://www.fao.org/fileadmin/templates/wsfs/docs/expert_paper/How_to_Feed_the_World_in_2050.pdf

♥ Nina Gbor

Giving the best gifts this holiday season / December 16, 2019 by Nina Gbor

Expression of Love dress by Pure Pod. Australian-made with 100% organic cotton.

With Black Friday recently passed and Christmas around the corner, we’re knee-deep in the season of overconsumption. I read an article today that claims 2019 was the year that sustainability burst into fashion mainstream but a holistic shift to slow fashion doesn’t seem to be happening fast enough.

The good news is that there have been articles and culture-changing messages in the mainstream encouraging people to people to rethink the way we consume material things. For example, an article in The Guardian quotes Berlin rubbish collectors suggesting that people should give time, not stuff this Christmas. I absolutely agree with that notion, but whether it’s the holiday period or any other time, we sometimes still need to use or acquire material things. What we can do however, is to consume ethically and responsibly. And if you absolutely must give a gift for Christmas or even after, consider ethical gift suggestions from platforms like Flora & Fauna, Be Kind Coco or Australian Ethical.

Where clothing is concerned, brands who make quality clothes to last are the best option. Labels like Pure Pod, Remuse, Etiko Fairtrade and many others, go through tremendous effort to ensure as little environmental damage as possible in creating garments. They also exude this effort sincerely to the best of their ability to ensure every worker is paid a just and liveable wage in the supply chain. Wearing ethical labels gives you the confidence that you are actively supporting a positive shift to a healthier, better way of doing things. Plus, you can rest assured your money is not potentially supporting a business that engages in exploitation or environmental degradation of some kind. This is essentially the best gift you can give yourself, the gift receiver and everyone involved in making that product!

STYLING

This is Pure Pod’s Expression of Love dress. It’s Australian-made, using jersey fabric from fairtrade organic cotton fibre from India. I went with neutral colours in putting together this gorgeous ensemble. I styled the dress with a tan brown bag and tan colour chunky high heel sandals. The tan colour complements the grey colour. The heels add a dressed up flavour, but I would just as well wear this jersey dress with flat sandals or ballet flats to be more casual.

Outfit sourced from:

Expression of Love dress - Pure Pod

Tan handbag - The Green Shed Underground Op Shop

Tan chunky heel sandals - Salvos Stores Op Shop

Photography by Bryant Photographer

♥ Nina Gbor

Ethical Consumption vs Retail Therapy / November 25, 2019 by Nina Gbor

Preloved dress and sandals from Australian Red Cross op shop.

This week I’m giving a talk about ethical consumption at the Australian Red Cross with REDxYOUTH. The preparation got me thinking about my own consumption behaviour. So, it’s time for me to come out with an open secret; I have way too many clothes. For all the minimalist wardrobe techniques that I teach, workshops on capsule wardrobes that I run and clothes swaps that I organise and clients whose wardrobes I help reduce, I still have a really big wardrobe.

I started op shopping and eco styling at age fifteen. My love for one-off vintage clothes, rare and unusual pieces made me a collector of fine garments that spark tremendous joy in myself and others. It’s been somewhat of a sacred art, with style being like a religion to me. Scouring the racks at vintage stores, op shops, clothes swaps and preloved markets is a rite that I’ve been performing faithfully. Fortunately, I’ve been able to alchemise this practice into a purposeful career in sustainable fashion.

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries. Its greenhouse gas emission levels have recently surpassed all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Globally we’re consuming about 80 billion brand new garments every year which is 400% more than what we consumed just twenty years ago. Australia happens to be the second-largest consumer of new textiles after the US. According to United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE), World Resources Institute (WRI), in total, up to 85% of textiles go into landfills each year. A massive part of the environmental degradation happens with fashion manufacture. For instance, the United Nations Environmental Programme says the fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water worldwide. It takes about 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. That’s more than enough for one person to drink eight cups per day for 10 years!

On the other side of it, we can afford to be so wasteful because clothes are cheaper than ever. Majority of the people who make our clothes (mostly women) are exploited with a plethora of human rights abuses ranging from super low wages to inhumane work conditions. Workers in developing countries can be forced to work sixteen-hour days for as little as $6 a day which does not come anywhere close to a liveable wage.

Our modern pattern of fashion consumption is a vicious, short-lived cycle of buy - wear once, twice or not at all - bin it - then buy new all over again. I believe the cycle is driven by trends. Trends are powerful because from birth, we’re conditioned to follow trends. For many decades, possibly even longer, fashion has cleverly advanced its skills in making the masses believe you have no value unless you wear their brand or follow trends. It’s one of the very things that makes us feel like we’re not enough, then promises happiness and acceptance if we buy. All the while, fast fashion brands amass billions of dollars on the back of exploitation and untold levels of environmental damage. What’s also sad is that this fashion consumption model does not seem to be giving us consumers any true, lasting or genuine happiness. This then begs the question; why the heck are we still doing this?!

My recommendation is that it’s time for us to ‘get off the fashion trendmill’. Individual preference and sustainable acquisition methods should be the premise for consuming clothes, not fashion trends. This is the key for buying less, choosing well and making our clothes last much longer. Preloved (secondhand) clothing keeps garments in a circular economy. This delays (or prevents)garments going to landfill. Even though about 97% of my wardrobe is preloved, and I tend to cherish pieces for a long time, I still sometimes wonder if I’m consuming too much. On the other hand, it’s also my career, therefore, these are tools of my trade. As a would-be fashion consumer, I would feel enticed to buy the latest shiny trend to feel validated. However, in my world of preloved shopping, even though it’s more ethical, it used to be fuelled by the need to fill a void like loneliness. It was also a form of escapism from a trauma that I was experiencing. Later, I became more conscious of my personal thought patterns that were driving the behaviour. I guess it’s up to each of us to introspect with brutal honesty to explore why we’re consuming so much in order to heal those parts of ourselves and shift the behaviour of overconsumption. What comes up for you when you think deeply about why you shop so much?

STYLING

This week, in honour of Australian Red Cross and all of the incredible humanitarian, aid and community services they have provided globally since 1914, I am wearing a dress and beige sandals from The Red Cross op shop. This 1950s vintage-style replica dress has a lovely pattern, laced in with side and lower panels of glorious, vivacious art drawings of on-the-vine oranges and flowers. I paired it with beige strappy, chunky heeled sandals I also found at the Red Cross op shop on a different visit. In some photos I’m wearing a charcoal preloved Miu Miu designer light mohair jumper I found at another op shop. I’m wearing a petticoat underneath to give it the voluminous 1950s full skirt look.

ReStyling tips

If you own a patterned or multi-coloured summer dress like this, you can wear it like I did with a petticoat and dressed-up shoe to look elegant. Otherwise, try any of these tips:

1. If you love pattern clash (like me), try wearing a top, button down shirt tied at the front in leopard print, zebra print or polka dot over the top half of the dress. The key is to make sure at least one of the colours of the top matches at least one colour on the bottom half of the dress. This makes the colour-pattern interaction look balanced. Otherwise it might look too out of sorts.

2. Go casual with no petticoat and a pair of flat sandals. You can even wear a plain, basic t-shirt of a with a colour that matches the bottom half of the dress.

Outfit sourced from:

Multicolour Summer Dress: Red Cross Op Shops

Beige Chunky Heel Sandals: Red Cross Op Shops

Charcoal Miu Miu Jumper: The Green Shed Underground Op Shop

Photography by Brunela Fenalte.

♥ Nina Gbor

Eco Styles

Style. Sustainability. Positive Change.

Fashion's impact on climate change; government, industry and consumer suggestions for net zero / March 9, 2020 by Nina Gbor

THE PROBLEM

HOW FASHION IMPACTS CLIMATE CHANGE

POLICY RECOMMENDATIONS

♥ Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles

Why secondhand fashion (thrifting) is not about being cheap / March 2, 2020 by Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles

Net-zero emissions; all hail ethical fashion brands like Etiko / February 24, 2020 by Nina Gbor

Giving the best gifts this holiday season / December 16, 2019 by Nina Gbor

Ethical Consumption vs Retail Therapy / November 25, 2019 by Nina Gbor

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